Toji (master brewer)

A toji (杜氏) is the master brewer: the person with ultimate responsibility for directing all aspects of sake production at a sake brewery. The toji leads the team of craftsmen who make the sake and has a major influence on its quality and brewing methods. Regional groups of toji, such as the Nanbu Toji, Echigo Toji, and Tanba Toji, each have their own traditions and techniques. For this reason, a change of toji can sometimes bring a change in the taste and style of a brewery's sake. In recent years, the average age of toji has reached about 65, and training successors has become an urgent task. The toji carries out key duties such as managing the brewery's operations and preparing and overseeing the moromi (fermentation mash), and plays an important role in safeguarding the quality of sake. The appeal and diversity of sake can be said to rest on the skill and passion of the toji.